summer in April
The first Saturday in April brought us a taste of summer. I must get a
longboard, hate being skunked when the summer calms the Pacific. We
surfed at spot W, beach break. The day was all sunshine and soft
breezes. The weather and the place filled me, heart & soul. This is my
home break, the first place I lived when I moved to the Island, and the
first place I ever surfed. I feel like I'm visiting an old and dear friend
when I come here.
The buoy was 3 to 3.9 when I left home. Waves were hip to shoulder
high, clean, rights and lefts, and really, really fun. What a great day.
There was eight or ten guys out. I surfed for a while, changed to fins
and took pics for a while and then surfed again. It was warm enough to
pull the hood off. Can't wait till the whole vest goes. The vibe was an
excellent mix of stoke and bliss. I believe a few of the guys even
mixed a little hangover with that stoke and bliss. The longboarders
were catching anything and everything. The death of envy will come with
the purchase of a longboard.
I woke early Sunday, to repeat the whole journey. The weather was
holding, the buoy was reading slightly smaller, the will is there, but the
body isn't having any part of it. It wants to laze around and recover.
Maybe even have a nap in the afternoon, the slack assed laggard. I
have got to trade up to a newer model one of these days.
Couched out and dreaming of glassy walls
12th of April
Spot W had a lot of big days this April, but alas, summer did not come
to stay. The 12th brought us great lumbering groundswell. Clean 2X overhead,
and offshore wind, but this
was no cheap date. It was work getting out and staying out. Everyone was
exhausted after a relatively short session.